SEMANA SANTA – Easter Traditions in Menorca

by Vanessa Jeny, Menorca Blue

As winter loosens its grip and spring blossoms on the horizon, Menorca prepares to welcome Easter with a mix of cultural traditions and culinary delights.

From Palm Sunday to Easter Monday, Semana Santa transforms Menorca’s towns and villages into stages for solemn processions, heartfelt rituals, and as always accompanied by traditional food for this season of the year. Let’s delve into the customs of Semana Santa across some of Menorca’s towns and offer insights into the 2024 celebrations.

Palm Sunday – Diumenge des Rams: March 24, 2024
In keeping with the international catholic tradition for Palm Sunday, a special mass is held in all the local churches in each of the towns around the island. Mass times vary depending on the church, but most of the Palm Sunday Masses have a mid-morning start time of between 10.00am and 12.30pm. In Ciutadella, one of the Palm Sunday traditions is observed with the blessing of the olive branches to the faithful (congregation). Once blessed the olive branches bring luck and harmony to the home when hung close to the front door.

The Sisters of the Convent of Santa Clara every year maintain their tradition of Palm weaving as they have done for decades, which is the art of taking the palm leaves and braiding them into intricate formations for children. There are different designs for both boys and girls. They also hold a simple procession at the time of the mass at 10.30am surrounded by the people of the town.

Holy Thursday – Dijous Sant: March 28, 2024
Mass services in different towns are held to commemorate the “Misa de la Cena” (Mass of the Last Supper). Most services start between 6.30pm and 8.00pm. Check the times at your local church.

Highlight: Mahón – Church of Santa Maria 8:00pm
Event: The “Misa de la Cena” (Mass of the Last Supper) marks the beginning of Semana Santa. Following the mass, a solemn procession, “Procesión del Silencio” (Procession of Silence), winds through Mahon’s historic streets. Locals, dressed in traditional robes, carry intricate lanterns as a symbol of reverence.

Good Friday – Divendres Sant: March 29, 2024
In keeping with the main tradition in all parts of Spain, Good Friday is the biggest celebration of Easter week in the form of the procession called the ‘Processó del Sant Enterrament’ featuring ornate floats depicting scenes from the Passion of Christ. Both Ciutadella and Mahón host the largest processions, where each church is the caretaker for one float adorned with candles & flowers for the event.

Each church has their own ‘Cofradía’ which translates to ‘Brotherhood’ who are responsible for carrying the adorned statue/float on their shoulders through the streets of the town or city. For weeks beforehand, they practise marching slowly in rhythm to the beat of the mournful drums from the band. Coordinated breaks are timed by a bell that calls for the statue to be lowered slightly to rest on stilts for a minute or so. It’s no easy task to coordinate, these floats are big and heavy, and the procession moves slowly whilst the ‘Cofradía’ are dressed in costumes.

Each Cofradía is dressed in cloaks and a ‘Capirote’, which is a Catholic, coneshaped pointed hat with a mask made from silk or velvet material. The origin of these headpieces for the Cofradía date back to the 17th century in Spanish culture, and each Brotherhood wears a different colour. It is said that they cover their faces to remain anonymous and not draw attention to themselves but to the float instead. They work as one entity in service and march slowly in unison falling into the procession in order of the Station of the Cross that their float represents.

The procession starts after nightfall combined with Mass. Usually the procession starts around 8.30pm in most towns, except for Mahón & Ciutadella where the procession starts at 9.00pm.

Mahón – Church of Santa Maria
The “Santo Entierro” (Holy Burial) procession begins at the Church of Santa Maria and then the procession moves through Mahon, culminating in the evening with a mass as a poignant display of reverence.

Alaior – Parish Church of Santa Eulàlia
Alaior’s Good Friday procession offers a more intimate experience. Locals gather at the Parish Church of Santa Eulàlia, where the figure of Christ is carried on a float through the streets in a solemn procession. The atmosphere is one of deep reflection and community spirit.

Es Mercadal – Parish Church of Sant Martí
Es Mercadal’s Good Friday procession commences from the Parish Church of Sant Martí. Adorned with flowers and candles, the procession winds through Es Mercadal’s historic centre, inviting spectators to witness a centuries-old tradition of faith and remembrance.

Ferreries – Parish Church of Sant Bartomeu
Ferreries’ Good Friday procession begins at the Parish Church of Sant Bartomeu. Here, locals and visitors gather to witness the sombre yet moving procession, as the figure of Christ is carried through Ferreries’ quaint streets, accompanied by mournful music.

Highlight: Ciutadella de Menorca – The Cathedral of Menorca 9.00pm
Ciutadella’s Good Friday procession is the largest, held at the island’s Cathedral. Known also as the “Processó dels Dolors,” this very solemn and majestic procession weaves through the historic streets of Ciutadella, drawing a multitude of spectators. Elaborate floats are paraded through the town, accompanied by ‘Cofradías’ from each church carrying candles while the town band plays majestic music to keep the marching beat. The atmosphere is one of reverence and awe as the procession moves slowly, allowing onlookers to reflect on the significance of Easter.

Diumunge Pascua – Easter Sunday: March 30, 2024
Easter Sunday Morning Mass services are held in all the churches around the island, with times varying between 9.00am – 11.30am. There are also evening services in both Mahón and Ciutadella.

Curious Custom of Ciutadella: ‘Els Bujots’ 12:00pm
Every year on Easter Sunday at Midday in certain points around the town, scarecrow type figures, dressed up and stuffed with straw are hung in front of a number of participating bars. Until 2020 these were destroyed at 12 noon by several locals with very loud shotguns but the law was changed to prohibit the use of firearms at fiestas and so now they are now destroyed with flares and firecrackers. This is one of those idiosyncratic customs that is hard to explain and may cause alarm if you happen to see one hanging or burning on your Sunday stroll through Ciutadella. These figures usually represent a negative act or experience of the past year that when burned, signifies a protest or the release of the negativity that it represents.

The figures are dressed in costumes or have signs symbolising what is being burned. It can have personal meaning for the bar or a more collective, critical or satirical protest about a current event or past act. For example, last year one of the Bujots was dressed as a soldier and held a sign that said ‘No more war’. There have also been Bujots with signs protesting against tourist massification, real estate speculation and the operation of the local incineration plant. The burning act only lasts a few minutes.

It’s certainly something different to see on Easter Sunday and only a practice in Ciutadella.

Indulging in Easter Traditional Treats
Menorcans also take the time to make and eat traditional Easter treats. Although these pastries are available all year round, it’s tradition to make and eat them at Easter.

‘Crespellets’ are delicate pastries flavoured with aniseed and dusted with sugar. Ideal to enjoy with your morning coffee.

‘Formatjades’ are a pie type pastry; all three types are different in appearance and flavour.

‘Formatjada de Carn’ is usually either diced pork or lamb meat mixed with spices, sobrasada and lard. Variants depend on personalisation of the recipe. Often sold cold in bakeries on the island, they taste best heated up in the oven or microwave for 10 seconds before eating.

‘Formatjada de Formatge’ in addition to being a mouthful to say, they are a delicious mouthful to eat as well. Made from fresh soft cheese that sits in a pastry base, when baked in the oven the cheese puffs up souffle-style and is best eaten still slightly warm from the oven.