YoUR LOCAL LIFESTYLE GUIDE TO MENORCA’ S BIGGEST TRADITIONAL FIESTA
By VANESSA JENY, MENORCA BLUE
If you visit Menorca between late June and early September, your stay will coincide with the local fiesta season on the island. These fiestas are always associated with a Patron Saint and all have the elegant purebred Menorcan stallions and incredibly skilled local riders, mainly from farming families, as their protagonists.
‘Sa Festa de Sant Joan’ (the Feast of Saint John the Baptist), is the original fiesta on which all the others are based. It is held every year in Ciutadella on the 23rd & 24th of June, and the Sunday before, this year the 18th June. Three official days of beautiful and emotive ceremony and celebration that dates back centuries.
It’s certainly the most incredible experience, with one important caveat: it is only for those who love horses and have a tolerance for crowds of passionate people! It’s most definitely not for everyone.
Sant Joan (pronounced Jo-an) is a fiesta that is truly at the heart of the people of Ciutadella and a custom of which they are both very protective and proud. A mixture of tradition, religion, music, people, animals, dance, food, gin, colour, laughter, family and friendship. The very best of what you would imagine a Spanish fiesta to be, and very much representative of some of the most treasured values of the Menorcan lifestyle.
However, it’s important to know that in the last 10 years, due to social media and increased accessibility via ferry, there has been a huge influx of youth that pour into the town from Mallorca and Barcelona. Combining crowds of over 20,000 with well over 100 horses into limited spaces, it’s important to know where and when to go to enjoy it, and which parts are best left to the locals. It’s impossible to do justice to the whole fiesta in this one article. If you would like to discover more about the events of each day and the beautiful symbolism of the fiesta, there are several articles on my blog Menorca Blue, to learn more about it.
Keep in mind that this is Spain, so the events of the Fiesta will happen without fail, but in most aspects the timing is approximate, the following pages give you the essentials and our recommendations.
RECOMMENDATIONS:
Pay attention at all times: It’s full-on fiesta fun, Spanish style!
It’s your responsibility to take care of yourself
Sant Joan is a local fiesta for local people. As a tourist, you have to be prepared to go with the flow and be very cautious of what is going on around you at all times. When in doubt, stay out of the way. There are no barricades. Horses have no brakes, riders have no rear view. Sometimes you need to be wary of the gin-fueled crowds. It’s not the running of the bulls but you have to be on guard not to walk into the middle of the cavalcade or put yourself in danger to take a photo. Read that last sentence again, accidents do happen, make sure it’s not you. If you hear the band, step away from the horses fast as it’s going to get crazy!
Travel light, dress appropriately
It’s not a place for open shoes, skirts, big bags, valuables or prams. Recommended are sneakers, jeans/shorts, sunscreen and a hat. There is a lot of walking and standing, not many places to sit in the shade. Keep that in mind.
Consider event timings and travel plans
During the hottest part of the day, there is nothing to see. The best way to get to Ciutadella is by taxi, bus timetables are scarce and more so after midnight. Check with your local tourist office for more information. If you come by car, you need a designated driver or to leave it there overnight. Parking is on the outskirts as the centre is closed, you then have to walk to the centre for at least 10 – 15 minutes. Police with alcohol control are at all roads out of Ciutadella at all hours.
Go easy on the ‘Gin amb llimonada’
If you are not used to it, Gin & Lemon is a sweet and strong drink that goes down well and will have you in the fiesta spirit in no time. The small cups make you lose count quickly. Eat well beforehand, drink lots of water and pace yourself. That’s the way the locals do it. It’s a marathon, not a sprint.
Choose what to enjoy, you can’t see it all
No one can see it all, not even the 100+ horse riders. Pick where to go and arrive well before the horses and crowds. Private homes are invite-only, not open to the public. My recommendation if you have to choose, would be to go on the morning of the 24th of June. Most of the partygoers are asleep, it’s family-friendly for the kids and the horses are calm. It’s great for taking photos and getting up close without the crowds and potential danger. My memories as a child with my grandparents are from wandering the streets early on the 24th of June.
The carnival rides are open in the evening all week
Each year the centre plaza ‘Es Born’ is closed to host the carnival rides which open each evening. You can also enjoy some sweets, ice cream or traditional ‘churros’. No horses or excess of people most days, only on the 23rd & 24th of June.
‘Axi tot va be’ as the locals say which means ‘This way, all goes well.’ Wishing you all a safe and fun Sant Joan! It’s a privilege to be a part of it and you will never forget it.
Written by Vanessa Jeny, Founder of MenorcaBlue.com – Peek inside Paradise & Live the Local Lifestyle
